Skip to main content

Frequently Asked Questions

Clear answers about needles, yarn, course structure, and how our email-only registration works. If something is still unclear, use the registration form and add a note—we will reply by email.

Email-only registration Cookie controls available in the footer

Quick guide

Socks and scarves cover a lot of ground: flat knitting, knitting in the round, shaping, and finishing. If you are new, start with the scarf track. If you have basic knit/purl already, you can begin with the sock anatomy lessons and treat the technique modules like a reference library.

  • Scarf first: edges, tension, drape, and blocking
  • Socks: heel turn, gusset pick-up, toe shaping, grafting
  • Finishing: weave-in strategy and tidy joins
Register by Email
No phone number required.
Is the course suitable for complete beginners?
Yes. We begin with the practical basics: cast-on options that behave predictably, knit and purl mechanics, and tension control that stays steady from one session to the next. You will also learn how to “read” stitches (so you can spot a twist early) and how to use stitch markers without turning the project into a pin-cushion. The first guided project is a scarf because it is the best place to practice long-row consistency, selvedges, and blocking. Socks come later, once the fundamentals are stable.
Do I need special needles for socks?
No special brand is required. Socks are typically knit in the round, and we explain two common methods: double-pointed needles (DPNs) and the magic-loop method with a long circular needle. Both produce the same fabric; the difference is how you manage the live stitches. We also cover needle material briefly—wood, bamboo, and metal behave differently with slick yarns—and how to choose a tip shape that feels comfortable when you are working decreases and small circumferences.
What yarn should I choose for socks and scarves?
For a first scarf, a smooth, light-coloured yarn makes learning easier because stitch structure is visible and mistakes are easier to correct. We explain yarn weight, twist, and ply in practical terms—what you can feel in your hands and see in your fabric. For socks, durability is the deciding factor. A classic sock yarn is a wool/nylon blend (nylon adds abrasion resistance), and we discuss why a tighter twist usually gives better wear at the heel and ball of the foot. You will also learn when to swatch, how to wash/block the swatch, and how that changes both drape and gauge.
Will I learn finishing and fixing mistakes?
Yes. The course teaches finishing as a core skill, not an afterthought. You will practice weaving in ends so they do not pop out with wear, and you will learn blocking basics so fabric relaxes and edges lie flat. On the “fixing” side, we cover laddering down a column of stitches, picking up dropped stitches, correcting twisted stitches, and handling small holes that can appear at a gusset pick-up. We also show how to use a lifeline for tricky sections and how to keep your work stable when you set it down mid-row.
What does “sock fit” mean in practice?
Fit is mostly about three measurable things: circumference (negative ease), foot length, and where you start toe decreases. We teach sock anatomy—cuff, leg, heel flap or short-row heel, gusset, foot, toe—and give clear checkpoints so you are not relying on guesswork. You will learn why gauge in the round can differ from gauge worked flat, and how a small needle-size change can correct a sock that is too tight or too floppy. The aim is a comfortable, wearable sock that does not slide down or pinch.
How much time should I set aside each week?
The lessons are designed for steady progress rather than long marathons. Many learners do well with three to four short sessions a week (even 20–30 minutes), because consistency improves tension and reduces the “re-learning” time when you pick the needles back up. We also include simple checklists so you can stop at a sensible point—after a repeat, after a heel measurement, or after a decrease round—then restart without hunting for where you left off.
Do you require a phone number to register?
No. Registration is email-only. We ask for your name and email address so we can respond with course information and a suggested starting path. If you want to include a question in your message, you can add it in the form and we will reply by email.
How do you use my data and cookies?
We use the information you submit (name and email) to respond to your request and provide course details. Cookie preferences can be managed at any time using the link in the footer. Essential cookies are required for basic site functions, while analytics and marketing cookies only activate after you choose them. For full details, please read our Privacy Policy and Cookie Policy.
Can I ask for help choosing between scarves and socks?
Yes. When you register, choose “Both (help me choose)” and add a short note about what you want to make first (for example: a warm everyday scarf, or socks for walking). We will reply with a suggested path based on technique order: flat knitting and selvedges first, or in-the-round and shaping first. Either path works—the key is to build a stable gauge habit and keep notes as you go.

Register for course information

Share your name and email and we will reply with the course overview and the best starting path (scarf-first or socks-first). No phone number required.

  • Technique lessons with clear checkpoints for shaping and finishing
  • Yarn guidance for drape, warmth, and sock durability
  • Practical troubleshooting: dropped stitches, holes, and tension issues
Prefer email? [email protected]

By submitting, you agree to our Privacy Policy.

Educational disclaimer

Educational materials on this website are provided for learning purposes only. Knitting outcomes depend on individual practice, materials, and technique, so results may differ from person to person. Always follow yarn label guidance for care and safety, and use tools responsibly.